Carline chambray Elisalex

Have you ever owned a fabric you’ve been too terrified to cut into? I think a lot of us have been there. It can be because it’s so beautiful or so rare or it cost you so much or it represents something much bigger about your sewing status.

I put fabrics up on a pedestal all the time, it can be a £40 silk or a £2 polyester. Its a real problem!

For me this Liberty print ticked so many of those fear boxes; it’s rare because I’ve never found Liberty chambray anywhere other than one Japanese etsy seller. It cost me a bit to buy it and ship it over as you might imagine. And it’s utterly beautiful so I wanted it in my Carline dress family.

 Almond rock liberty carline elisalex by hand london

I decided a safe bet would be to sew a pattern I’d made before but with a few tweaks. I’d loved making the Elisalex because of the great fitting princess seams and wanted to try adding sleeves to make the dress more versatile. I skipped the instructions for the sleeve insertion and used the clean insertion method which I’ve used a few times – video close up here. I really should post my own version of this tutorial as I think the original post photos are a little hard to see.

With this technique the sleeve is fully enclosed in the bodice lining for a very professional finish. The draft of the sleeves is excellent by the way!

I also swapped out the skirt pleats for gathers as I think the pleats fell a little funny on my lower half.

Almond rock liberty carline elisalex by hand london

Seeing photos of the back still makes me smile with it’s gorgeous swooped neckline… makes me sad I can’t see my back when I wear it! Thought I’d need some kind of flamingo or giraffe neck for that to be possible. For the zipper I’m not over the moon with my invisible zipper. Even after installing what feels like a thousand, there are just some that don’t want to stay hidden at the intersections of the seams, even when everything has been graded and stitched properly. This is why my heart belongs to lapped zippers. I might unpick and redo.

Almond rock liberty carline elisalex by hand london

As you saw at the start I thought I’d copy Gertie and make a sailor inspired number but changed my mind as I lay the binding on. Maybe it’s plain but I love it. And if down the line I want to fancy it up I can hand-stitch trim on top!

What do think? Add some trim or leave it plain?

(4) Comments

  1. I think you really did the fabric justice! I also prefer it plain, the trim on that Gertie photo always looked too much for me if I’m honest. If you REALLY wanted to jazz it up, maybe a belt to match your shoes? That always levels up my dresses and outfits, I think, a good coordinating belt to nip my waist in.

    P.S. I hate how most invisible zippers are inserted and it always frustrated me that they weren’t perfectly invisible so now when I do it my own way without the bullshit of a different presser foot, I find they always turn out invisible. You’d think your tools are supposed to help and not hinder you, right?? Screw invisible zipper feet.

  2. This is stunning! I love the bodice, what a lovely extra detail to have it lined. I also think that the gathers work really nicely.

  3. Tess Althea says:

    Thanks so much for the link on the clean insertion method!

  4. Tess Althea says:

    I would consider a crochet lace trim, small, around the neckline and hem maybe? I think it looks really good as is, though.

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