Tauko Dynamo Dress

Time for a new Fabric Godmother Ambassador project! This is the Dynamo Dress pattern from Kaisa Rissanen for Tauko Magazine issue 13, available as a standalone pattern on Fabric Godmother. Made in the most beautiful twill called Midnight Circus Viscose Twill in Navy. I was sent both the pattern and fabric in exchange for a project they could use to showcase The Midnight Circus Collection.

I really liked the slit front neckline and gathered forward shoulder seam of Dynamo. It has a neat band collar, 3/4 sleeves with cuffs, and side pockets. And you know I favour a drawstring waist – this one has side ties. The version made with a single fabric (A) is a great base for prints, while the version with two contrasting fabrics (B) features fun angled seams which I fancy trying on a future version.

For my make I used view A to show off this incredible printed twill fabric. The Midnight Circus Collection captures the magic of the big top after dark. Featuring striking prints inspired by circus performers, horses, snakes and classic polka dots, the collection is brought together in a rich palette of midnight and jewel tones, perfect for autumn and winter dressmaking. I think the horses with his little trotty leg, might be my favourite, though the elephant is a close second.

You can see I removed the collar and used a bias binding facing for the neckline since I have such a short neck and find collars uncomfortable. Skipped the pockets as I didn’t want them to drag down the fabric, narrowed the cuff piece slightly and ditched the waistband channel pattern piece on the inside (I just turned up the seam allowance and topstitched into a channel. Finally I moved the drawstring waist to tie at the centre front – I slightly regret that last change now.

The skirt shape is lovely. Not too oversized so it draws in without too much bulk at the waist. It’s gathered slightly before attaching to the bodice FYI. There is a drawstring piece included but I had the perfect maroon cord in my stash to use! It would have been nice to have the ties at the side wouldn’t it – I just doubted myself and thought I’d get annoyed by them under my arms.

The centre front seam is constructed nicely with a drafted-on front facing that you fold back. I enjoyed pattern matching across the seam but of course that’s one of my favourite challenges in sewing! I’m still working on content for my pattern matching course on Youtube – hopefully releasing next year if I get my butt into gear. It will show you a few methods for matching a bold print like this across a seam.

Unlike some other magazine patterns, Tauko includes seam allowances which makes me very happy. The instructions did disappoint me a bit. For example, some pages are black text on a grey blue background – not easy to read and definitely not accessible for those who need higher contrast. I would also say they aren’t great for visual learners as they are scarce on diagrams. After 15 years, I usually glance over the diagrams and speed read the pattern text and then sew things the way I want to (unless I’m pattern testing that is). You can’t do that here – lots to read.

With the pattern you get a few extra files though – I enjoyed the included 3D mock ups turned into 360 rotating videos to show each view’s garment details. You DO NOT get cutting layouts though be warned (I am okay with this, but know this could throw some of you). The fabric is a one-way print so I took care to use a one way / nap cutting layout and ended up using around 2.5m for the dress.

Sizing is numbered from 1. For a full blouson loose fit I could have made the size 3 but chose the size 2 for a bit less ease. After my first toile I did a narrow shoulder adjustment and added some length to the back shoulder as the gathered forward shoulder seam was pulling backwards. I also did a petite height adjustment, removing height below the bust area on the front and back since I’m a shorty (5ft4). I also took 5cm off the hem length just to lift it a little. I wish I’d added in more gathering at the shoulder seam because it’s a little unnoticeable in this fabric and could be more dramatic.

Because I’m moderately obsessed with trim at the minute, I played around with some options and got very close to adding a blue scalloped edge ladder trim with velvet ribbon on top but didn’t have enough of the ribbon for this look. In the end I chose a polka dot cotton trim from my recent fabric shopping trip to London, that I picked up at Fan Trimmings in Soho. It’s soft and off-white, a perfect match for the same shade in my fabric. I added this at the hem and wrists; it’s sewn along one long edge with a straight stitch using ivory thread on top and grey thread in the bobbin, to blend in better on the inside.

My favourite dress to wear in cooler months is this spotty one… so I think this new variation on the style is going to get a LOT of wear. It goes perfectly with my red Mary Janes and I can wear with tights and my navy oxford shoes for very chilly days!