• Dresses

    Vogue mash up

    Sometimes the best pattern is the one you have in your stash. Or in this case, the two!

    For my brother’s wedding I wanted to make my own version of the cami / slip dress trend that would work for my figure. I wanted to make V9278 but didn’t have time to have it sent out to me. (I’d left sewing my dress to the last minute after doing the wedding dress and groom’s jacket). I hunted through my stash and found V1428 and my beloved V9000!I’m bottom heavy so a classic one piece slip dress would need to be heavily graded at the side seams to work. Instead I decided if I added a waist seam and flared skirt if would work much better. That meant I could use the under bodice from V1428 which is designed to have a lace bodice over the top. And I repeated a previous hack where I removed the panel seams from the V9000 skirt to make a front and back skirt.My beautiful new sister-in-law invited me to walk with her brother down the aisle ahead of her entrance. We agreed I would wear green, a traditional wedding colour in Afghanistan. I sent her photos of all my green fabrics. The best match was an emerald green floral by John Kaldor. I can’t quite pin down the name of it as I bought it about 6 years ago! (Here is the same print on a different fabric base). It’s a satin backed crepe so felt amazing to wear on the inside of the garment.

    I cut both the front and back of the dress on the fold and put an invisible zipper in the side seam. With lightweight fabrics I like to use ultra lightweight zips but they don’t come in many colours. For instance, I had to use white on this dress. So I used nail varnish to paint the puller to match and I had extra incentive to make sure my zip really was invisible!Almond rock makes Vogue slip dress pattern in John kaldor crepeHemming a full skirt like this in a fabric which has a lot of bias stretch is a total pain in the butt. The hem drops more dramatically than other fabric types. I hate it every time but thankfully had borrowed my Mum’s Newey chalk pump marker. This tool lets you blow a line of chalk at a set level. You rotate and keep pressing the hand pump. Then you have a even chalk line to follow all around.

    When you mash two patterns together like this you need to make sure the seam lines are going to meet. The skirt and bodice should have the same circumference. And the side seams should be in the same place. You should measure or “walk” the seam lines of the front bodice and front skirt to check they are the same length if they are then the side seams will match. But you might need to remove from one piece and add to it’s partner to move the seam line.Almond rock makes Vogue slip dress pattern in John kaldor crepeI made a size 14 in each pattern and luckily my seam lines matched up! I think it fits pretty great. Plus the wedding was a total success, more on that another time.

  • Dresses

    V9000 and The Big Vintage Sew-along

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    Wow I can’t believe my turn on the Vintage Sew-along blogger tour has come around. I hope you like what I have to share. (Sadly I’m back to taking my own pictures. Sorry about that. And the weather was awful so I had to take the pics inside. Extra sorry about that.)

    almond rock v9000 vintage sew-along sew essential

    So I became very interested when I saw V9000. It made me think about my version of V1044, probably because of the grown on sleeves. It went on the shortlist (thinking, well surely I’ll be swayed into making one of the other patterns) but I kept coming back to that lovely flat collar and full panelled skirt.

    almond rock V9000 Big Vintage Sew-along John Kaldor Sew Essential

    In all honesty I don’t think fully buttoned shirts suit me. I have a very short neck and when I’ve tried them before I just feel claustrophobic. So I thought a high buttoned FLAT collar could be the answer.

    almond rock V9000 Big Vintage Sew-along John Kaldor Sew Essential

    As you can tell I rounded the pattern pieces using a French curve and trimmed some height of the rest of the collar (probably too much) to create something a little reminiscent of Marilyn Monroe’s outfit here. I wanted to go for classic black and white but resisted for a pop of colour.

    The panelled skirt is great for narrow fabrics while still achieving that full skirted effect and comes together so easily.

    almond rock v9000 vintage sew-along sew essential

    In terms of sizing the bodice is a size 8 at the shoulders a 10 around the body and a 14 around the waist. I didn’t adjust the length of the bodice or skirt amazingly. As a shorty I normally reduce the length of skirts as a rule but I really like the length of this dress. It fits fantastically when I wear the right bra – aka not the one from these pics. Isn’t it amazing how much of a difference that makes!

    almond rock V9000 Big Vintage Sew-along John Kaldor Sew Essential

    This John Kaldor microfibre is medium weight, glossy and a bit stretchy (like cotton sateen) with the drape of polyester. This print is called Ursula in burgundy and the fabric is from Sew Essential, priced £10.56 per metre.

    The fabric print is large and abstract enough to avoid print matching. I think it looks like a papercut in a way. Or a hamsa tattoo?

    almond rock V9000 Big Vintage Sew-along John Kaldor Sew Essential

    Then I used plain black polyester from my stash for the collar and the self covered buttons, with a red invisible zip and red thread (almost all of my habby supplies were from Sew Essential in fact). I used some bias binding from my stash to hem the skirt.

    Is it just me that overlooked how many awesome John Kaldor prints they have? OMG – I’m going back for some of those other floral and painterly prints. And it’s nice to pick up everything you need for a project in one place.

    almond rock v9000 big vintage sew-along sew essential john kaldor

    SO would you make this dress? Or have any of the other patterns from the BVSA Edit caught your fancy? I’d love to know.

    Please take a look at the Edit on the Vintage Sewalong site because a proportion of proceeds from the pattern sales are going to a fantastic charity, The Eve Appeal as the work they’re doing into gynaecological cancer detection, education and prevention will surely resonate with the predominantly female sewing community.

    Keep looking out for Sew-along posts because there are a lot of talented bloggers still to come and I can’t wait to see their makes. Here’s my moody shot to finish hehehe.

    almond rock V9000 Big Vintage Sew-along John Kaldor Sew Essential