• Jackets and coats

    Olive Green Vogue 1537

    Here she finally is, my finished Vogue 1537 in Olive Green wool. I’ve been dragging my heels all winter with this one but she’s finally done! When I made my first version of this coat it was LOVE. In fact I still love it…. I just can’t button it up any more. But I might in future so it’s staying put in my coat cupboard.

    Almond rock makes Vogue 1537 a mid length coat sewing pattern in olive green wool coating

    If you remember, originally I wanted a pass at this coat after seeing someone make a wool version on pattern review. You know I like to break the rules and was happy to find a like-minded rebel. It’s of course designed for lighter weight fabrics but who cares about that. Here’s my second wool version!

    I used my altered pattern pieces with lengthened sleeves and no wrist tabs. And just like before there’s no hem vent. Shame on me AGAIN for not adding one. But you can easily move in this gently boxy coat without one. Plus it does line up but I was victim to the wind which was WILD. I had to choose between all my hair over my face or the hem not matching for the next photo.

    Almond rock makes Vogue 1537 a mid length coat sewing pattern in olive green wool coating

    This is my 9th piece of outerwear I think? But second full length coat. And because I made it from wool coating I had to add some extra steps that weren’t in the instructions to prepare the fabric. First you have to decide how to prepare your wool. I like to steam shrink everything by hand with a garment steamer or iron. Other people take the risk and machine wash. And some don’t prep at all. With the horrible rain that UK Autumn/Winter experiences, I prefer to get all shrinking out of the way.

    Almond rock makes Vogue 1537 a mid length coat sewing pattern in olive green wool coating

    Then I interfaced all the body with medium woven interfacing and the facings with a thicker canvas style interfacing. I decided not to pad stitch the interfacing in place, and used fusibles this time around because although my coating is thick, it’s not the kind of pile you could easily hide all the stitches in. Fusing such large pieces makes me wish for one of those big iron presses that tailors have. You can see I also use bright basting stitches to hold things in place… my idea of fun (I’m so wild, you can’t stand it).

    Almond rock makes Vogue 1537 a mid length coat sewing pattern in olive green wool coating

    When it comes to pressing seams I use a clapper and pressing cloth to hold the heat in the wool and avoid shiny marks from the iron plate. I also use a pair of manilla envelopes under the seam allowances to prevent a seam line mark on the right side of the garment. Then rather annoyingly when I was giving the coat a final press, I totally forgot this and pressed the long back seam creating a shadow/dent. I bet you didn’t even notice it in the photo, but I know it’s there. Hopefully it will fade with time and another steam.

    Almond rock makes Vogue 1537 a mid length coat sewing pattern in olive green wool coating

    Its a really lovely pattern with a great dress included. Vogue patterns are filled with nice designer details for a super polished finish. And I love the 60s vibe of the collar. You’ll see this design has large patch pockets but unfortunately I was about 30cms short of fabric to add these to mine. Instead I used the scraps of wool to make hip level welt flaps, for pockets which are lined and functional. Given how thick the fabric is the welts turned out nicely but I prefer a patch pocket for easier carrying of keys/phone/mask.

    Almond rock makes Vogue 1537 a mid length coat sewing pattern in olive green wool coating

    The fabric is from Montreux Fabrics (now sold out), from their stall at Knitting and Stitching Show Harrogate. It’s a very thick pure wool coating with an interesting variegation of thread colours. The finished coat is only a little bulky while being pleasantly very warm – my orange version was much thinner. I’m really pleased with the colour out in the world… in my sewing room it looked a little drab. A word I try not to associate with! The lining is rather the star of the show. This cat print satin (also sold out) was provided free of charge from Rainbow Fabrics as a preview of their A/W collection in exchange for an Instagram story. When I saw it alongside the coat fabric the colours paired so beautifully, with the navy and mustard cats popping against the olive.

    Almond rock makes Vogue 1537 a mid length coat sewing pattern in olive green wool coating

    So now I can be warm and dry again until nice weather returns to the UK. And I can move onto another project which hopefully I’ll finish quicker! Thanks for reading to the end. Or thanks for looking at all the pictures.

  • Jackets and coats

    Orange is the new red Vogue 1537

    Not quite a tangerine dream but close to the perfect pumpkin, it’s all fruity over in my house with this newly finished orange coat. It’s the kind of orange that is easy to mistake for red… until you try and wear it with real red.

    It’s of course the pattern of the moment Vogue 1537. This Kay Unger design was a firm favourite from the Vogue Cocktail Hour which raised money for The Eve Appeal. Check out my previous posts here and search the hashtag #sipandsew to see everyone’s makes.

    I wanted a pass at this coat after seeing someone make a wool version on pattern review. You know I like to break the rules and was happy to find a like-minded rebel. It’s of course designed for lighter weight fabrics but who cares about that.

    I lengthened the sleeves and skipped the tabs. You might notice extra buttons down the front though I prefer wearing it open. I actually hate wearing single breasted coats but like the way they look. This one is especially bad as there’s no hem vent. Shame on me for not adding one. It’s also lines up at the bottom, I’m just standing funny.

    The wool was actually bought with a voucher won at Sew Up North. It was for my fave Leeds market shop BM stores too, how amazing. Thank you so much Sally and Beccs for bringing this coat to life with your awesome raffle. My lining is a stretch satin from Leeds market too. I’ve had terrible luck with coat linings lately where they rip at the seams after about a year’s wear. Maybe I get more aggressive in my coat wearing style after the 1 year mark. This is my fourth or fifth outerwear piece but first full length coat.

    I’ve actually been singing the old nursery rhyme oranges and lemons for weeks as I have a mustard coat project lined up but keep changing my mind about what pattern. Maybe the new By Hand London release will be the winner?

    BONUS OUT TAKE TIME!! Sexy right?

  • Other stuff

    Gathering Supplies

    Over the last couple of months I’ve slowly been gathering supplies for a new jacket.

    Since making my Anise I sort of laughably said I’d never make another coat or jacket. Well that didn’t last long.

    I started in October by whittling my pattern choices down to three favourites. Burda Pattern 7115, Burda Download 9 2014 #120, and a Vintage McCall’s 8420.

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    You can see I was interested in a notched collar and a pea coat shape. I did want something a bit longer than a jacket but not quite a coat.

    I came pretty close to drafting something myself but then I settled on the Burda and will adjust as needed (pattern on offer here).

    While shopping at Samuel Taylors in Leeds I saw a beautiful pale aqua wool coating but couldn’t shake the idea of a darker teal colour.

    And at SewBrum Barry’s came to the rescue with a lovely textured green coating half way between teal and emerald. And I already had coordinating thread in my stash yippee!

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    During a fortunate spot of eBay surfing last month I found a seller offering this gorgeous high heel print silk satin and snapped it up for the lining.

    It’s a soft grey colour with some shoes in outline only and others coloured in pink, green, yellow.

    Now I need fusible underlining and interfacing, and coordinating buttons.

    Sadly with all the Christmas sewing I’ve got on my plate I’m not sure when I’ll be able to make a toile but I hope it’ll be soon. I’d like to get back to selfish sewing haha.

  • Other stuff

    Giveaway time!! (Aka time I stopped winning and started sharing)

    I recently won two giveaways. I’m not bragging I promise. Though I am super chuffed!!

    The first was the Anise coat as mentioned in my last post.

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    As soon as I won fear excitement made me immediately book a jacket making course!

    I’d mentioned previously the course was a Christmas gift I was lucky enough to receive. Well I’m hoping to get stuck in the world of tailoring with a Chanel jacket and build up to Anise from there.

    Next up I won the sew grateful giveaway from Vintage Follies, thanks to the delightful Cherise. She’s great if you’re not aware of her blog. I mean check out this awesome dress she made before including the remaining fabric in my giveaway.

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    I won a vintage pattern, oodles of gorgeous red buttons and the leftover lingonberry fabric!

    Well winning more than one giveaway when I didn’t host a giveaway myself is unbearable to me!!

    So here is my giveaway. It’s modest but I hope you like it.

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    You can win the Kirsty Allsopp Craft book, a vintage simplicity dress pattern (single size 12 bust 34), vogue 8666 dress pattern (sizes 6 to 12), 9 unusual black and white buttons, 9 square mother of pearl style buttons and a cute owl tape measure.

    I’ll send anywhere! To win just leave a comment on this post before midnight (gmt) Thursday 28th February.

    Good luck!!

  • Other stuff

    GIVEAWAY TIME – Pattern Pyramid is in Yorkshire!!

    It started with the lovely Karen of Did You Make That? and 30 plus patterns (OMG) and it has travelled around the world, spreading sewing joy to the blogisphere.

    And thanks to a fluke of fate I won the pattern pyramid hosted by the delightful Rachel of House of Pinheiro.

    I have to confess I was a little scared when I heard I’d won. I didn’t think I’d have anything to repopulate the pyramid with.

    I know that isn’t a rule of hosting a Pattern Pyramid (PP*) but I really want this thing to keep going as long as possible.

    Soon I realised I did have some patterns to contribute so I can see this pyramid standing a lot longer yet!

    Here’s what my parcel contained:

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    The coat Rachel added, a blouse that has been in there since the start (woooah), a pattern for a doll’s wardrobe and a draped shawl jacket/coat.

    Only four items left!

    I really wanted to like the blouse pattern. The girls look so sassy on the pattern envelope right?

    I decided to take the coat pattern instead though as it will suit me more and give me a new challenge.

    And here is what I added! A selection of prima patterns.**

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    To Enter The Giveaway: 
    1. Leave a comment on this blog post expressing interest.
    2. The winner must agree to choose 1 pattern for herself and be ok with sending the rest off to any corner of the world.
    3. You must have a blog of your own to host the giveaway of the extra patterns.
    4. When you make your item, be sure to share with us . You will even have a lovely label to put on it.
    5. You must claim your win by sending me an email (see “contact me” in the right-hand pane) with your postal address. If you don’t get in touch within a reasonable time I’ll have to redraw.

    With Christmas right on our doorsteps and the post office shutting down for a few days I’m going to let this run until midnight December 25th (GMT).

    Consider it a belated Christmas present if you win!

    * Have you ever realised what a weird word “Pyramid” is?! I tell you typing it for what feels like the twentieth time will make it hit home.

    ** I don’t think Prima patterns get fair credit. They do plenty of nice simple garments in well varied sizes and all for a very cheap price! So I hope someone will appreciate these.