Dresses

Dashwood Kwik Sew 4111 & McCall’s 8090 hack

Do you hoard fabric for years because you get scared to cut it? Or talk yourself out of using it because your idea won’t do it justice? Well then, how about impulsively cutting it after years because you’re mad how long it’s been in your stash and mad at yourself for past indecision?

Almond rock Dashwood studio rayon Susan driscoll kwik sew 4111 mccalls 8090 dress pattern hack

This brings me to today’s dress. In hot weather I want to waft around in viscose dresses. Preferably loose fit with wide armholes. After finishing a version of McCall’s 8090 (to be shared very soon) I decided the skirt was perfection. And I could add a different bodice to create an equally lovely dress.

Almond rock Dashwood studio rayon Susan driscoll kwik sew 4111 mccalls 8090 dress pattern hack

I rooted about my stash and found Kwik Sew 4111. I liked that it was a blousey bodice that they had gathered in to the waist. I decided to use it without the gathers.

I also shortened the bodice by 7cm, drew a v neckline and swapped the zip for a keyhole back. I’m sharing my altered pattern pieces for reference. The tie belt is a simple pair of long rectangles sewn all around with a turning gap. I added belt loops at the side seams to stop it wiggling around!

Almond rock Dashwood studio rayon Susan driscoll kwik sew 4111 mccalls 8090 dress pattern hack

The keyhole is mostly for show because I can get the dress on over my head in one swift motion. Let’s dive onto the construction so you can make your own keyhole back dress.

Almond rock Dashwood studio rayon Susan driscoll kwik sew 4111 mccalls 8090 dress pattern hack

Sew the shoulder seams of your bodice, then the shoulder seams of your all in one facings. Place everything right sides together and sew around the necklines and armholes. Clip, notch and trim the seam allowance.

Turn everything out to the rs through the shoulders. That’s the fun bit right?

NB: Start here if you only have a neckline facing! Fold over the centre back facing over again so it’s RST with your fabric. A thin piece of binding acts as a rouleau loop and is sandwiched between the layers facing inwards. Sew the seam down the centre back stopping at the end of the facing.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk. You then finish by making the centre back seam and stop sewing about 20cm from the top. Then continue as normal with your pattern instructions.

Simple right?

Almond rock Dashwood studio rayon Susan driscoll kwik sew 4111 mccalls 8090 dress pattern hack

3 Comments

  • Carol Thomas

    Fabulous material, it was a shame to keep it squirrelled away. So glad you made this super stylish little number. Well done!

  • Louise

    Lovely dress, and I do enjoy a proper blog post to get into the details of the changes you made and methods used. I always learn something, instagram is fun but blogs will always be my favourite.

  • Linda

    Very cute Amy. That print is so pretty. You did a great job on the fit. Thanks for showing us the changes and methods you used. Very helpful information.

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