Vintage shirt dress number 3

I can’t help myself with this pattern, plus I have so many more versions planned!

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In case it wasn’t obvious, this is the Vintage Shirtdress from Sew Over It aka the Ultimate Shirtdress in my mind. I wanted to try the pattern in viscose this time and felt I knew enough about the pattern to make it work.

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This poly viscose is from possibly the man outside Sainsburys… well it’s definitely from Walthamstow market following a very successful shopping trip with a Emmie, Roisin and Lauren. He just wasn’t quite behind sainsbury’s so who knows!? I thought this print was very Hobbs like or maybe Whistles? Nothing proven but it’s fun to dream and I know TMBS often gets end rolls from the high street.

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To keep the viscose from slipping all around I spritzed the uncut fabric with spray starch which was a big help during sewing but hasn’t washed out fully so the fabric is still a little stiffer than I like. These shell buttons were from my stash and I have absolutely no clue when from!

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The pattern sizing hasn’t changed from versions 1 and 2 so I’m not sure I have much else to say. I hope you forgive me for being brief!

On a plus I think I’m finally getting to grips with my camera settings! I took a few pictures of Chewie Cat and love how they turned out. These were shot on my X30 Fujifilm. It’s a bridge camera so I have the option to adjust my settings or let the camera decide. It’s great for when I’m in front of the camera as it does the hard work but then I get to play when the camera is back in my hands!

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Megan meets Orla dress

Hello hello!

Hope you’re all having a fab weekend. I’ve been poorly but thankfully starting to feel better, even if I’m still struggling to speak. My throat is burning but that won’t stop me sharing a new dress with you!

almond rock tilly and the buttons Megan love at first stitch

So yesterday I made the Megan dress from Tilly’s book Love At First Stitch. It’s not really my normal silhouette but I really wanted to try it!

almond rock tilly and the buttons Megan love at first stitch

It came together really quickly but I should have made more adjustments. I cut a 4 with a 6 from the bum downwards. I moved the bust darts and lengthen the waist tucks. Then I had to adjust the armhole and sleeve cap to reduce fullness. This dress totally needs a sway back adjustment I think. Let’s face it, It’s not great on me. I don’t care though since I didn’t spend much time working on fit.

almond rock tilly and the buttons Megan love at first stitch

Close fitting skirts aren’t really the most flattering on my unique derriere. I have a very round tummy with a flat hip, curvy butt and wider thigh. That means if skirts like this fit on my thighs they leave a sallow spot around my hips. The flowy fabrics helps minimise that in person but you can see it on the pictures. Here you can see the sway back issue.

almond rock tilly and the buttons Megan love at first stitch

The fabric is a poly twill from Abakhan. I really like the print because it gives me an Orla Kiely vibe. One downside was it was near impossible to pattern match. I gave it a fair shot but I’m not losing sleep over any off bit. Especially since I won’t wear it often.

almond rock tilly and the buttons Megan love at first stitch

I replaced the neck facing with bias binding, then adding bias binding to the hem and sleeve hems. I watched An Education while handsewing the bias in place. 60s flick for a 60s frock.

Quote from the boyfriend: “I like it, it’s sort of smart. Like workplace smart”.

I can work with that.

almond rock tilly and the buttons Megan love at first stitch

Happy sunshine dress

Hello everyone! I promise this isn’t going be a huge ramble about the weather, even though I’m a total British cliché and actually enjoy talking about what’s happening out there. If I’ve ever talked to you about the weather, don’t think it’s just small talk… it honestly isn’t!

almond rock simplicity 2444 floral summer dress

So this is a dress I made last Summer! It was great for those sticky days when I needed to feel put together but stay as cool as possible. We’re not having so many of those right now. I have this really vivid memory of being out in Leeds with my mum and the sun was shining down on us and just loved wearing this dress. I also wore it to meet the gorgeous teeny newborn baby of my two good friends so the happy memories keep rolling.

almond rock simplicity 2444 floral summer dress

The cotton is a pretty print I found at B&M fabrics in the market but I’ve seen it online at Sew Over It called Cristabel and at Goldhawk Road. It’s a lightweight poplin with a touch of spandex. B&M had it on a blue base too.

almond rock simplicity 2444 floral summer dress

The dress is a Simplicity 2444 bodice with bigger armholes and thinner “straps” or should we still just call them shoulder seams? I used the Emery skirt from Christine Haynes because it’s so awesome; the perfect length and flared with the perfect A line. I added the pockets from the Emery too. I’m super happy with the fit of this dress now.

almond rock simplicity 2444 floral summer dress

The dress isn’t lined, just sewn up with the included facings which made it super quick to sew. The print means it isn’t that sheer but I definitely need a slip to wear the dress with tights. I installed a lapped zipper in the back because I am still on the quest to perfect these. This one is almost right, but the zipper pull shows a little.

almond rock simplicity 2444 floral summer dress

Oh and I rediscovered this necklace the other day too and really want to buy another big colourful piece like it. I systematically forget to wear jewellery every day. I really want to change that; although perhaps that means picking out jewellery the night before and laying it out for myself. That’s weird right? I have some lovely antique pieces from my family that I really regret not wearing more. Am I the only forgetful “accessoriser” out there?

V9000 and The Big Vintage Sew-along

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Wow I can’t believe my turn on the Vintage Sew-along blogger tour has come around. I hope you like what I have to share. (Sadly I’m back to taking my own pictures. Sorry about that. And the weather was awful so I had to take the pics inside. Extra sorry about that.)

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So I became very interested when I saw V9000. It made me think about my version of V1044, probably because of the kimono sleeves. It went on the shortlist (thinking, well surely I’ll be swayed into making one of the other patterns) but I kept coming back to that lovely flat collar and full panelled skirt.

almond rock V9000 Big Vintage Sew-along John Kaldor Sew Essential

In all honesty I don’t think fully buttoned shirts suit me. I have a very short neck and when I’ve tried them before I just feel claustrophobic. So I thought a high buttoned FLAT collar could be the answer.

almond rock V9000 Big Vintage Sew-along John Kaldor Sew Essential

As you can tell I rounded the pattern pieces using a French curve and trimmed some height of the rest of the collar (probably too much) to create something a little reminiscent of Marilyn Monroe’s outfit here. I wanted to go for classic black and white but resisted for a pop of colour.

The panelled skirt is great for narrow fabrics while still achieving that full skirted effect and comes together so easily.

almond rock v9000 vintage sew-along sew essential

In terms of sizing the bodice is a size 8 at the shoulders a 10 around the body and a 14 around the waist. I didn’t adjust the length of the bodice or skirt amazingly. As a shorty I normally reduce the length of skirts as a rule but I really like the length of this dress. It fits fantastically when I wear the right bra – aka not the one from these pics. Isn’t it amazing how much of a difference that makes!

almond rock V9000 Big Vintage Sew-along John Kaldor Sew Essential

This John Kaldor microfibre is medium weight, glossy and a bit stretchy (like cotton sateen) with the drape of polyester. This print is called Ursula in burgundy and the fabric is from Sew Essential, priced £10.56 per metre.

The fabric print is large and abstract enough to avoid print matching. I think it looks like a papercut in a way. Or a hamsa tattoo?

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Then I used plain black polyester from my stash for the collar and the self covered buttons, with a red invisible zip and red thread (almost all of my habby supplies were from Sew Essential in fact). I used some bias binding from my stash to hem the skirt.

Is it just me that overlooked how many awesome John Kaldor prints they have? OMG – I’m going back for some of those other floral and painterly prints. And it’s nice to pick up everything you need for a project in one place.

almond rock v9000 big vintage sew-along sew essential john kaldor

SO would you make this dress? Or have any of the other patterns from the BVSA Edit caught your fancy? I’d love to know.

Please take a look at the Edit on the Vintage Sewalong site because a proportion of proceeds from the pattern sales are going to a fantastic charity, The Eve Appeal as the work they’re doing into gynaecological cancer detection, education and prevention will surely resonate with the predominantly female sewing community.

Keep looking out for Sew-along posts because there are a lot of talented bloggers still to come and I can’t wait to see their makes. Here’s my moody shot to finish hehehe.

almond rock V9000 Big Vintage Sew-along John Kaldor Sew Essential

Big Vintage Sewing

Sewing and wearing vintage-inspired clothing is something I love to do. I often find these patterns have more interesting construction details and work well in both vintage look and modern fabrics.

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When I heard the line up for McCall’s Big Vintage Sew-along I was really excited. There are so many excellent patterns in there. If you haven’t checked out the full edit head to this foldline summary or see the site www.vintagesewing.co.uk. There are 20 patterns in total, from the 1930s through to the 1960s plus a couple of Gertie’s 50/60s inspired patterns (they’re understandably year-less but stylistically probably just dip into the 60s).

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Over the coming months you’ll see versions of all the patterns cropping up online thanks to the BV Sew-along blogger tour, this will keep the inspiration bubbling and hopefully help you get started.

If you just can’t wait to clock eyes on some vintage dresses, I’m here to help. I realised I’d already sewn four of the patterns from the edit! So take a look at my round up and let me know if you’re tempted to make any of the patterns yourself. I’ve included notes on things to watch out for and as getting the size right with vintage patterns is so important, detailed what size this 5ft4 lady with a 36” bust and 41” hip chose. Right, now you know how bootylicious I am, let’s get started!

(Warning: The pictures in this post were assisted by a professional make up artist and photographer who I coerced into making everything look nice but have not been airbrushed as proof by my sock lines hahaha)

V9127
almond rock v9127 vintage sewing

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When I saw the line art for this dress I knew it had to be mine. I MEAN SWOOOOON! And I can honestly say this dress makes me very proud. I used a berry crepe fabric I bought in Walthamstow market last year and made self covered buttons. I used a coordinating zip and seam binding. I’m not going to fib, this isn’t an easy dress as there are a couple of areas where you really need to focus. The construction is 90% done by pressing under seam allowance and then topstitching the panels together. That much topstitching NEEDS a special foot or you’re going to go insane, unpicking and redoing. The other area to focus on is the pockets at the top of those swan head darts. This is where I had to read the instructions 4 or 5 times. After all my hard work I preferred them basted shut! Go figure.

Notes:
1. I cut two sizes down from my measurements to make a close fitting shirtdress rather than coat dress. This is predominantly a size 6 graded to a 14 at the hip.
2. The skirt was shorted 12cm. I probably should have just shortened by 8cm but too late now.
3. It took three toiles to adjust for my small bust and narrow shoulders, a slight swayback, plus to practice the pockets!
4. My crepe was very light and the dress is unlined so I’d recommend more of a triple crepe or cotton instead.
5. GET A TOP-STITCHING FOOT (I used my stitch in the ditch foot with a right hand needle position).

B5209

almond rock B5209 vintage sewing

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A tea dress can be a wonderful addition to your wardrobe because it easily works for day time and occasions if done right. I liked the effect of B5209 when done in a print even though you lose the beautiful seam lines a little. This dress I’m definitely going to make another plain version. Here I used a Liberty tana lawn from Minerva Crafts (they have some left in multiple colours), white lining with a secret purple side seam zip. With so many intersecting seams, the instructions cleverly direct you to not sew to the end of each seam, but stop and backstitch where each intersection will sit. This allows you to fit each piece together accurately to get the beautiful star at the centre front.

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Notes:
1. The bodice is self lined but I added lining to the skirt to be tights-friendly.
2. There is a BEAUTIFUL underrepresented lip shape curve at the back neckline that is very eye catching when your hair is worn up.
3. A print will help disguise any slightly off alignment seams if you’re feeling the pressure to be accurate but an air erasable fine line marker is invaluable to this pattern.
4. I sewed a 6 around the shoulders and chest but blended out to around a 14 in the ribs and waist I also reduced the gathering on the bust by about 4cm by using the markings for size 6. Finally I lowered the bodice 1cm.

B6582
almond rock B6582 vintage sewing

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This pattern is so lovely because it’s modest but interesting and has a surprise dip in the back. After two years in my wardrobe is comes out for weddings, parties, dinners out, work meetings and events, and once, a trip to the ballet! In a complete disregard for the pattern directions I used a viscose from Minerva Crafts. This makes the gathers at the shoulders very pretty, and the skirt extra swishy, but makes the back facing roll out occasionally. This dress is constructed using a partial front and partial facing to create the wrap effect in the upper chest.

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Notes:
1. I had to do a major hollow chest adjustment and full tummy adjustment, plus make the pattern a little more petite.
2. The outer fabric and facing is joined together BEFORE the shoulder seams are sewn, it’s suspicious but trust me, it leads to a neat finish.
3. While viscose is lovely, I’d definitely suggest something less fluid.
4. If you check out my blog there’s a tutorial for making a coordinating belt which is great to finish the look.

B5748

almond rock B5748 vintage sewing

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OOH this one, I’m excited even introducing it. This pattern is great fun to wear as the bodice is flattering, the front cut out and scoop back are both eye catching, and the circle skirt is amazingly big! I used a 60”-wide Liberty carline poplin, which isn’t as nice quality as tana lawn but has a good weight and the print is so lovely, the fabric base doesn’t matter as much. I used a soft cotton lawn as the bodice lining, hemmed with bias binding and installed a lapped zipper.

Notes:
1. This is an great pattern for a beginner as it’s easy to fit and construct, especially if made in a cotton poplin which handles well, is often the standard 60”-wide and comes in so many prints.
2. Bias tape is an excellent way to hem a circle skirt as it stretches to fit the curves. 99% of the time I machine hem circle skirts as life’s too short to sit and hand sew such a large area.
3. Wouldn’t this look good with a bow made from rouleaux loops!

So if you enjoyed all this vintage craziness from me, look out for my BVSA post on the the 15th!