Deer and Doe Luzerne Trench

Hello again ladies and gents! Hope you’re all enjoying #sewphotohop and fingers crossed you’ve been following my posts throughout September. I’m currently struggling to find time to sew for myself, which is killing me. I have a free afternoon on Sunday and some yummy fabric from So Sew English, so wish me luck!! How about starting the evening with a project review?

Almond rock, Deer and Doe, fabworks, Luzerne trench, Mac, coat making

Meet my Luzerne trench coat. Do you ever really truly hate a project but keep going?? This is rare for me. I normally stuff UFOs out of sight but I think because I didn’t want to get this jacket too rumpled (hahah this sentence will be extra ironic as you read on) it always stayed in my eye line. I’ve been dipping into it every few months to get it finished. Given that I started this make in May, LAST YEAR, I’m amazed it’s finally done.

Almond rock, Deer and Doe, fabworks, Luzerne trench, Mac, coat making

So why do I hate it? Let’s get started. The fit of this jacket was really hard to work out for my lifestyle. The amount of ease needed for wearing the trench with a jumper leaves it baggy without one underneath… and I like cardigans which create a hollow at the centre front and lumpy areas at the bust. Having the bust look especially rumpled really grates because I love a great fit in my torso. This is my own fault for trying to sew a relaxed coat when I’m not that kind of dresser. I like fitted clothes so what made me think I’d like a loose fit mac?!

Almond rock, Deer and Doe, fabworks, Luzerne trench, Mac, coat making

The shape of the collar is also infuriating. It has this weird step that looks out of place to my eye. Its not a stand collar and it’s not a notch collar! What are you!?! Again this is my own issue, you may love this touch. Maybe you never even noticed… it looks so nice on other people’s versions.

Almond rock, Deer and Doe, fabworks, Luzerne trench, Mac, coat making

Don’t get me wrong… There are a lot of great details. Those lovely pocket edges, the button tabs, curved back yoke, and well fitting sleeves but why oh why didn’t I ignore the pattern and make a longer tie belt!?

Almond rock, Deer and Doe, fabworks, Luzerne trench, Mac, coat making

I know it’s a nice make but all I see is the creases and fit issues. I’m going to try and wear it more this Autumn with extra layers underneath to see if we can get on.

Almond rock, Deer and Doe, fabworks, Luzerne trench, Mac, coat making

I used a lovely magenta organic twill from Fabworks which comes in a lot of colours. It’s the perfect weight but has a little bit of stretch which didn’t help my ease issues. And I made metres and metres of bias binding from a scrap piece of Wiltshire Liberty tana lawn. Binding everything takes a loooong time but creates a fun inside.

Almond rock, Deer and Doe, fabworks, Luzerne trench, Mac, coat making

The pdf pattern arrives in multiple sizes and with separate English instructions – it in fact goes up to a phenomenal plus size range in PDF so bravo to the team. They’re fairly detailed but you may need extra help if you’ve never tried bound buttonholes or sewn a collar before. I made a size 38 without a toile because that is my size in D&D patterns but would definitely size down in future. If you can, buy the paper pattern for this one as it’s a LOT of pages to stick together.

Okay I’ve waffled on enough. For other gorgeous versions from the sewing community check out Sleepless into Bavaria who has made not one but TWO spotty macs, Allie J who clearly got her sizing just right and Stay Junique in her sassy red version.

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Careless cutting – NL 6808 take 2

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Oh yes I was smug. I had “conquered” New Look 6808.

I was dancing around the living room in my finished top and thought hell yeah I’m gonna make another!!

I decided to up the fun factor. Thick blue plaid with 3/4 sleeves so it’d be super warm and snuggly!

I whizzed through it. And I lined up my plaid pretty well I thought… bust darts excluded obviously. More delicious smugness.

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I was even deliberating adding an exposed metal zipper for extra cool factor. Oh yes I’m that cool ladies…

Then it came to the sleeves:
Attempt 1 – went mental and forgot the direction of my plaid. Ended up with them in a blatantly different direction to the rest of top.

Attempt 2 – correct plaid direction.  Waaaay too much ease.

Attempt 3 – used tips from Casey and Green Apples on reducing ease from sleeves. Reduced too much and couldn’t lift arms/get top off again/thought it wanted me dead.

Attempt 4 – cap sleeves a la version 1. Tried to remove less ease than previous attempt. Still removed too much. Again the top tried to choke me to death but with less vigour this time.

Attempt 5- oh wait I’m out of plaid!! So I resigned myself to having a sleeveless top. Rather than buy more just to mess around with sleeves.

So I started snipping the frayed edges down to apply bias tape (of course they were frayed after all this sewing and unpicking) and had some kind of deranged spasm!

I snipped right into the top! Right in there, nice and big and unrepairable. Oh and did I mention I’m out of plaid!?

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Pffftt…. crapzola.

So my top just earned itself a nice place in the bin. At least now I can move on to something else.

Hello Polka Dot Truffle party dress! I’ve left you alone for too long.

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