Pass The Wine – Vogue V1044

Phew, what a project. This is Vintage Vogue 1044, an original 1956–1957 pattern.

almond rock vintage vogue 1044 linen

I started off thinking of this as a shirtdress, but that seems flippant.

almond rock vintage vogue 1044 linen

It’s a mid-length dress with a pleated button-front bodice, and has a front and back yoke that extends into kimono sleeves. The skirt is gathered, but also designed with a snap closing in front and inverted pleats.

Everything came together when Kath shared a photo of this pattern on her instagram account. You could have bowled me over when she offered to send me her copy. I had been searching for a very long time for a copy in my size and it was like a dream come true when the post turned up from Australia.

almond rock vintage vogue 1044 linen

I chose this dress for my Vintage Pattern Pledge as a challenge to myself, to prove I could handle a complex pattern that used vintage techniques. And I think I’ve been pretty successful with it!

The pattern suggests Crepe, Shantung, Batiste or Taffeta but I picked this wine coloured Linen as I knew it would be well suited for the pleated bodice while still having enough drape for the skirt. Plus the colour is lush! Covering buttons for the bodice just seemed like the right choice too. Plus there was Gutermann thread in a perfect colour match.

almond rock vintage vogue 1044 linen

Taking time and effort with this pattern was very important to me. I made three muslins of the bodice to correct fit and practice the complicated placket instructions.

During a bout of internet research I found some brilliant tips for this dress: I changed the order of some of the steps (e.g. sewing my darts after my pleats and stay stitching my corners before assembling the yoke). I also reinforced the sharp corners where the yoke joined the bodice with squares of silk instead of the suggested seam binding.

The yoke facing is entirely hand-stitched and so was the epic hem (I added some lace trim to the hem for a sweet touch). The visible seams are pinked which gave me the chance to use my Grandma’s pinking shears she used when we sewed as a younger woman.

almond rock vintage vogue 1044 linen

I was very respectful of the pattern up to a certain point but I just couldn’t get along with the snap front skirt. It gaped and didn’t hang right, and to be honest seemed rather unnecessary. I instead recut a standard skirt and unpicked the right side-seam to hand-sew an invisible zipper.

almond rock vintage vogue 1044 linen

It’s a shame, but I had to up the exposure on the camera to show the details, the colour is a beautiful rich red. I feel so elegant in this dress. And I’m even happier that the dress matches a pair of shoes I already own, yippee!

I think the only thing I wish I’d done was add pockets. Maybe next time?

almond rock vintage vogue 1044 linenRight, pass me the wine. It’s time for a celebratory drink!

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67 Comments

  1. Totally inspirational. That dress screams perfection, and talent and patience and beauty. And is exactly the kind of post I want to read about. Cheers, clever lady x

  2. Your hard work paid off, this dress is gorgeous! The tucks are perfection and I like that you covered the buttons. It adds a nice touch.

  3. What a gorgeous colour! It suits you really well. This pattern seems to have been quite a lot of work – well done for making three muslins! It was absolutely worth it! Have you worn it already?

    1. I seem to making three muslins for everything lately! I love the outcome though. I wore it out for a nice dinner with my photographer to celebrate!

  4. Well done on your patience to get this finished, it looks marvellous! I love all the details, truly magnificent! I agree with you on the snap finish for the skirt. I have made vintage patterns with this detail and I just can’t do it, too much fear of flashing!!

  5. That dress is gorgeous – absolutely my favourite from all the makes I have seen on your blog. It has an early Laura Ashley look about it and your work on the detailing is really skilful. Well done you – can we see a photo of you wearing it at an occasion?

    1. Wow thanks so much for your lovely comments! I will do my best to get photos at an event. Any excuse to wear this dress as much as possible

  6. What a corker! ( continuing the wine pun 😉 )
    It’s beautiful Amy, and such a perfect finish, all your hard work was worth it, you’ve got an heirloom dress there!

    1. Haha love it! Thank you for your lovely comments. What a nice idea to think of this dress still being around in years to come!

  7. Really, really lovely. You’ve obviously put lots and lots of time and effort into this dress, and it’s definitely worth it as the result is beautiful.

  8. You certainly have proved your skills and dedication – absolutely beautiful – totally adore the detailing but then that’s why we love vintage style so much I suppose. 🙂

  9. I can’t get over this dress! It is absolutely delightful,beautiful,and positively lush.

    I am so inspired by what you have achieved with this dress! You have serious skills! I would have been terrified of those sharp corners at the yoke! I think linen was a splendid choice and the colour is gorgeous on you! 🙂 x

  10. Congratulations on such a beautiful dress! I love all the details and truly believe your effort has been rewarded by the stunning result! I am waiting for the pattern to arrive into my mailbox, so I will start on this soon enough, hoping I will so justice to its design!

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