Simplicity 8014

Today, I’m sharing the story of my first Fabric Godmother ambassador project — and how I nearly ruined it. Thankfully, it has a happy ending! The fabric is the star here: a wintery purple broderie anglaise, embroidered with black flowers. It’s mostly opaque, beautifully textured, and perfect for a cold-weather shirtdress.

I was inspired by the Natalie Dress from Phase Eight, which plays with sheer and solid areas. To recreate something similar, I used Simplicity 8014 for the shirt dress base, using view A and B because of the lovely skirt and combined it with McCall’s 8553 to get a flat collar that suits my short neck. The final look blends the best of both patterns — a flared skirt, cuffed sleeves, and a collar that sits just right.

Here’s where things got tricky. I’ve always had narrow shoulders and full biceps, so this project became a masterclass in adjustments. I know two methods for narrow shoulder adjustments, and a classic full bicep adjustment, and I share both in detail in the video linked here.

But in a moment of distraction during my adjustments, I accidentally cut out the entire armhole instead of just the shoulder area — completely throwing off the fit! My toile ended up too tight across the chest and impossible to move in. I felt ridiculous… but also reminded that even experienced sewists make mistakes!

After some unpicking and a lot of cups of tea, I redrafted the shoulder seam, corrected the armhole, and added back the ease I’d stolen from my bust. Once the sleeve fitting was right, I could finally enjoy a dress that moves with me — not against me.

The final version features continuous bound sleeve plackets (fiddly but worth it!), black buttons that tie in with the embroidery, and subtle underlining using Fabric Godmother’s coordinating cotton lawn. The dress is unlined and I’m wearing a black slip underneath for modesty. I love how the sheer areas catch the light, and although I ran short on fabric and couldn’t lengthen the skirt to the view A hem length, it hits just at the knee — short, flirty, and perfect for layering.

Now I have my dream long-sleeve winter shirtdress — wearable, comfortable, and proudly handmade. It’s proof that sewing mistakes can turn into learning moments, and that patience really does pay off. If you’re inspired to start your own winter broderie dress project, please check out the video.