The Little WHITE Jacket

Finally I have put my fledgling couture skills to good use!

My Mum’s couture cardigan is complete and it had its first outing this weekend.

Some of you will remember that earlier this year I took a class with the Yorkshire School of Sewing to learn how to make Vogue 7975 using couture techniques and benefit from the instructor Gillian’s wealth of fitting experience.

I was sewing a little black jacket with black grosgrain trim. Well I’m ashamed to say that is still sat at home, 90% complete.

I am not ashamed to say that everything I learnt was well worth it for use on this gorgeous jacket for my mum.

We used white bouclé with multicoloured woven crosses from iconic fabric heaven Linton Tweed; Gold satin lining from Jack’s Fabrics; Gold trim and buttons from Birmingham Rag Market.

These are the skills that were involved in producing this beauty:

• pattern-matching/aligning the colourful woven crosses
• underlining each piece
• hand-basting then quilting the lining to the shell fabric
• hand-sewing all the various lining seams down
• inserting a neckline stay
• mitred corners
• adding weighting to the hem
• catch-stitching chain in place by hand
• hand-sewing the trim around the edges

There is also a fake placket at the wrists and fake pockets, all decorated with trim and buttons. We also added tiny hooks and eyes to close the jacket but mostly this is going to be worn open.

We divided the work so that I would come over during the day, help as much as I could and then on the evenings I’d leave my mum homework (usually hand-sewing lining). She took the jacket over the finish line by hand-sewing all the trim and buttons. What a super star.

And I think she looks fabulous in it! It’s the perfect length and style for wearing with jeans like she is here, and to pair with dresses.

Taking a class is an excellent way to learn the techniques for making a realistic couture cardigan and Gillian is wonderfully patient so if you’re based in or near Yorkshire she definitely gets my endorsement.

I’ve also heard excellent things in passing about Claire Shaeffer’s new book with enclosed instructional DVD but have yet to see any complete reviews for it.

If you’re wondering why I keep saying couture cardigan and not dropping the CC-bomb it’s because of this thought-provoking blog post.

And in case you wish to revel in my failure but learn a few things at the same time here are the links for my previous LBJ posts:

Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Hopefully one day I’ll write Part 4!