Pretty little pattern hack Butterick 6318 and Butterick 6453

Sometimes an idea for a dress sticks with you.

almond rock gertie b6418 b6453 butterick retro sewing patterns art gallery fabrics floral universe

I have a wonderful and annoying job where I constantly search for fabric for the magazine. Mostly the thrill of featuring the prettiest fabric in the magazine is enough but a lot of the time I become obsessed with getting some for myself. Like the cover garment for issue 43…

almond rock gertie b6418 b6453 butterick retro sewing patterns art gallery fabrics floral universe

This Art Gallery Fabric rayon is absolute gorgeous and was designed by Maureen Cracknell. I’ve bought a couple of her other prints and I’m a big fan in general. The design is called Floral Universe in turquoise from the collection Soulful. You can still buy it here.

almond rock gertie b6418 b6453 butterick retro sewing patterns art gallery fabrics floral universe

While I loved the wrap ties with the gathered skirt of B6318 I had a feeling the kimono sleeves and high neckline on the bodice would drown me. Then I remembered this dress I’d saved on Instagram! The perfect compromise. So in steps B6453!

almond rock gertie b6418 b6453 butterick retro sewing patterns art gallery fabrics floral universe

There’s not much to say about the B6453 dress as I’ve made it before. I added the wraps into the side seams during construction like the B6318 instructions direct. The fabric is pretty opaque but I underlined the bodice for stability and lined the bodice for a clean finish. The skirt is unlined and I overlocked the insides. I use a metal loop turn to turn through straps which I know some people hate but it always works for me.

almond rock gertie b6418 b6453 butterick retro sewing patterns art gallery fabrics floral universe

So in hindsight the waist ties could have been a smidge longer as this back shot below shows. Meh, you live and learn I say. It’s hard to see but there’s a lapped zipper as it’s my favourite and it is what the pattern recommends. Plus I used rings and sliders on my straps, again following the pattern which let’s you get a custom length. The sew-along and Facebook support group for this pattern is wonderful if you are nervous.

almond rock gertie b6418 b6453 butterick retro sewing patterns art gallery fabrics floral universe

The colours of my fabric are heavenly and the scale of the print is so fun and the feel of that rayon… oh hubba hubba, it’s so dreamy!! AGF rayons are amazing quality. I wote this dress on honeymoon and felt amazing. I wanted to dance around like a vintage movie star to make the skirt swish as often as possible. It was hard staying still for these photos.

almond rock gertie b6418 b6453 butterick retro sewing patterns art gallery fabrics floral universe

Now I’m excited to take it on more sunny adventures and swish around new countries!

*Just to let you know this post contains affiliate links but products I link are from trusted sellers like The McCall Pattern Co selling through Amazon or Minerva Crafts. There’s no obligation to buy through the link of course. I don’t advertise on my blog so this is a little way to fund the running of the site!

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Make lemonade New Look 6587

I’m a romantic at heart… I daydream about wearing glorious vintage clothes in stunning architectural spots around Europe… I’m Audrey in Roman Holiday, or Grace in To Catch A Thief… In reality I don’t have the patience to get up at dawn to find a location then get in position or wait in the perfect spot for everyone to leave the frame. People in tracksuits tend to ruin the retro illusion. But I make do.

Almond rock new look 6587 Dolce and Gabbana lemon dress nl6587 #simplicitybyme

During my trip to Barcelona in May I knew I wanted to at least get blog photos of this dress. I’d hoped for more since I was in a stunning European city BUT I have a very unhappy photographer/travel companion who doesnt like getting in the way/being watched taking photos/the pressure to get the perfect shot. I think Rach and Noelle have a genius solution being dedicated photographers for each other. Any volunteers?

Almond rock new look 6587 Dolce and Gabbana lemon dress nl6587 #simplicitybyme

Seeing catwalk dresses and knowing you can make a version that suits your life and budget is so enjoyable! I had the above Dolce and Gabbana lemon and floral beaded poplin dress (£2578) saved on my pinterest board for a long time as well as the below stunning organza silk lemon print dress which is a D&G variation on the first style (£3798).

Almond rock new look 6587 Dolce and Gabbana lemon dress nl6587 #simplicitybyme

For my version I used a stretch cotton with zesty lemons on a smaller scale and teal leaves. This fabric is from Fabricland a year ago when lemon fabric mania was at its peak!! Flash forward a year and there’s new lemon designs out there so go shopping with glee everyone.

Almond rock new look 6587 Dolce and Gabbana lemon dress nl6587 #simplicitybyme

As a modest lady who gets cold easily I wanted a dress with sleeves and have been quietly obsessing over button front dresses for a while. I got New Look 6587 in a pattern shop about 5 years ago and took it out every year thinking “Is this too 90s? If it is why do I love it so much?”. Safe to say I made it more vintage.

Almond rock new look 6587 Dolce and Gabbana lemon dress nl6587 #simplicitybyme

I made view E without the trim. The skirt is barely gathered which I find quite flattering and works well in this style of fabric. I also added an inch to the length for midi coverage. Everything is faced in nude bias binding which is a neat finish. I chose vintage teal and white buttons I picked up in the Bonds of Farsley sale and to make up for having only 7 buttons I added reverse buttons on the inside in the gaps.

Almond rock new look 6587 Dolce and Gabbana lemon dress nl6587 #simplicitybyme

My belt was made using a vintage belt kit gifted a few years ago by a fellow sewist. While I’ve made a belt before I’ve never had access to real belting material. My kit was nearly identical to the one shown in this tutorial. I love the finished effect and made sure to perfectly position two holes – one for before dinner and one for after!

Almond rock new look 6587 Dolce and Gabbana lemon dress nl6587 #simplicitybyme

This dress turned out so much better than I hoped. The style, colours and fit make me so happy and stylish. (Quick announcement: I’m also in love with my lemon earrings!) Barcelona beach was a fun backdrop for the photos… even if I had to sacrifice my beautiful ideas of retro images. I might wear it to the Italian Riviera themed party at New Craft House this sunmer!

Almond rock new look 6587 Dolce and Gabbana lemon dress nl6587 #simplicitybyme

Feeling happy 50s or 90s vibes for this pattern? Take a look at these ace versions: I’m green with envy over this dress, and I’m gagging over this beauty and last but not least visit pattern review to see this, plus more cute versions!

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Two for joy Annabelle dress

Hello everyone! I was unbelievably excited to see the Dior exhibition at The V&A museum this weekend. I took my Aunt and cousin and just knew I’d tear up when I saw everything… I’m oddly emotional about the idea of all that design and talent gathered together. See a few personal highlights on my Instagram account.

almondrock annabelle dress lindbop teadress vintage style retro sewing

Tea dresses are the ultimate wardrobe staple for me so it’s no surprise I reach for the same few patterns when I want to show off a great fabric. Feminine, timeless and modest they suit my workwear wardrobe as much as my out of office outfits. I love going out for lunch and on day trips in vintage style clothes as much as I like vintage glam evening wear! During the work day I don’t get to pile on the vintage make up or hair but I like to wear retro inspired clothes to the office as they make me feel turned out and confident. There’s no actual dress code in my office so sometimes wearing a shirtwaist dress or a circle skirt while everyone is wearing jeans makes me a point of difference but it doesn’t put me off. I honestly enjoy getting dressed every morning… I hope you do too?

almondrock annabelle dress lindbop teadress vintage style retro sewing

So as you will have guessed, I’ve made this pattern before (three times now but only twice blogged). This is the Simple Sew Annabelle dress which I’ve always made in drapey crepe fabric. This time I thought I’d try something a little more structured! I treated myself to this “cotton spandex mix” from Lindy Bop who have just started selling fabric. They have a small collection of prints on two bases; scuba and “crepe de chine”. The latter arrived and was stretchy and relatively well structured so I think it’s a creative interpretation of what crepe de chine fabric is. It still gathers like a dream and has a lovely shine to it so please don’t think it’s not a quality fabric. I chose the magpie print and the bookcase print (as an editor I had to).

almondrock annabelle dress lindbop teadress vintage style retro sewing

The blue is so vibrant and each of the magpies are depicted chasing different jewels and treats like rings, charm bracelets and gems. I live in a new build house from the early 2000s which was a long empty plot of land originally. When the builders turned over all the soil ready to build on, magpies came in the droves to find shiny bits that were unearthed and even now the houses are built they can’t help return to the spot. On a daily basis I see between 5-10 magpies around my street so I am constantly singing THIS nursery rhyme. And I ALWAYS say hello to a lonely magpie to make sure he’s not on his own.

almondrock annabelle dress lindbop teadress vintage style retro sewing

You buy the material in either 1m or 3m lengths so have a think what you’d prefer and maybe partner up with someone to share if you The fabric is printed on a white base so when you stretch it you can slightly see white beneath. It’s also surprisingly closely woven so I recommend a very sharp fine needle to avoid snagging. You may want to line the fabric in case it sticks to tights but it’s totally opaque so makes a really lovely garment. I’m really pleased with the dress and the fabric and I’m looking forward to making my bookcase print dress! I think it would look fun as a Simplicity 1419 or a Selkie Patterns London dress don’t you?

almondrock annabelle dress lindbop teadress vintage style retro sewing

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Eve Sew Over It dress

Time for something unusual today… a “pretty fail”. I don’t tend to share garments I’m not happy with on the blog as I probably won’t wear them and the problems aren’t something that others can usually learn from (like bad colour choice or low quality fabric, etc). This time I love the fabric used for this dress so much I’m going to fix it at the weekend to make it more wearable!

Almond rock Eve dress Sew Over It Mandors Glasgow

This is the Eve dress by Sew Over It. I bought this pattern from Village Haberdashery something like a year and a bit ago as I loved the elegant versions popping up on the internet. I then paused as wrap styles never really suit me due to my extreme difference in proportions. I’m still currently a 36A cup size and 31″ waist with a 44″ hip. I need a really flared wrap skirt to flatter my lower half and need to ensure a close fit at the bust given I don’t have much to fill the top. I made view A which features fluted sleeves and a longer hem length. My fabric is suitable drapey and opaque (always a winning combination in my book) and I love the bold teal colour.

Almond rock Eve dress Sew Over It Mandors Glasgow

This is a twill fabric from Mandors of Glasgow priced £5.99 and comes in a couple of colours but I couldn’t resist the teal. They sent me the fabric for free in exchange for a review of their service and I was pleased to see my parcel nicely wrapped in tissue paper and sparkly ribbon, and washing/care instructions were included for the fabric. The range and prices on offer were surprising when I started browsing as I’d always assumed Mandors were a small business but with plenty of lovely dressmaking fabric and unique patterns on offer I’d be tempted back again for sure. And as I look at fabric shops for a living I have high standards.

Almond rock Eve dress Sew Over It Mandors Glasgow

While I adore how swishy the sleeves are I think the combination of longer length and big sleeves are drowning my 5ft4 frame. I have very narrow shoulders and feel like they’re getting lost. The print on the fabric being ditsy does suit me I think as it’s not too overpowering and the bold block of colour makes it an eye-catching dress.

Almond rock Eve dress Sew Over It Mandors Glasgow

I made a size 8 around the upper bodice, grading to a size 10 waist and then a size 14 hip. Given the wrap style there is a lot of room for adjustment here but I think the bodice is quite loose and prone to moving so I either safety pin it shut or wear a pretty slip underneath. It billows a little at the back too so is quite airy to wear on a hot day (not that they seem to be coming back soon!) The length feels very romantic and looks nice with heels or flat shoes. It just comes back to those darn sleeves.

Almond rock Eve dress Sew Over It Mandors Glasgow

I tried tucking the sleeves in for a photo (don’t laugh please) and instantly felt unburdened so I’m going to unpick the sleeves and bias face the armholes. I just don’t think I’ll wear it again if I don’t do this, even though I love how vintage 40s the silhouette is.

Almond rock Eve dress Sew Over It Mandors Glasgow

Isn’t it funny how your brain can picture some garments so clearly in the planning stages to help you match the right fabric to the right pattern and sometimes it can lead you down an odd path…

Time to look at some gorgeous versions of the dress like this “nightie” version by Emilie with some clever observations, Cheryl’s stunning rose print and not forgetting this “too big and too small” dress by Daphne inspired by Boden.

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McCall’s 6891 chambray shirtdress

Hello all! I’ve recovered from my extremely busy December and am back with a finished make for myself.

This dress was a rather spontaneous make as I was lucky enough to try on a finished version we had in the office! This meant I quickly worked out the couple of tiny adjustments I’d need to make it fit me. I could then cut out with confidence and whizzed this up in a day. In fact I made the yellow version you’re seeing on the new pattern envelope! We’re now making the designs in UK fabric and reprinting the envelopes. Squeal!!

The pattern is M6891 which is on the front of Love Sewing 63 on sale from tomorrow! It’s double stuffed so you get sizes 8-24 in one envelope and the issue includes tips on collars and cuffs if you haven’t made them before. I love a notched collar and The McCall Pattern Co instructions direct you to make theirs differently to other brands like Simplicity or indie designs.

As normal you position the collar between the facings and shirt neckline, instead of sewing over the seam allowance they ask you to push it out of the way and stop at the seam point marked by a dot, then sew on the other side in the same way. Here’s a diagram to explain a bit more:

This reduces bulk as it means you can grade the seams and trim a bit more freely as the seam allowance isn’t trapped… But this technique seems more beneficial on thicker fabrics like coats really. Unless I’ve missed another reason for this technique.

It’s not a surprise I like this pattern, as retro style shirtdresses are a big proportion of my wardrobe. They’re both smart and casual – perfect! I made view C and love the full skirt. The darts give a nice shape and of course the notched collar has a lovely vintage feel. It needs a reverse button/hole at the waist point for extra security but I can add that any time.

Now of course the Ultimate Shirtdress which is my favourite shirtdress pattern but in truth I’ve never got on with the sleeves. On the McCall’s design the sleeves fit great so maybe I need to try and merge the armscye and sleeve of this pattern with the Sew Over It pattern in the future.

I made the size 10. The bust fits my 36a-cup really nicely so no SBA here. I just adjusted the waist at the side seams to fit my 32″ tummy and the wide flare of the skirt is very roomy on my hips.

You might be wondering about the fabric… well to that I say, “Sewing friends are awesome”. They are especially great at birthday time because they think like a sewist when getting you a present and remember what things you say you like! This gorgeous Robert Kaufman spotty chambray was a gift from the darling Marie! Creative mind behind blog www.astitchingodyssey.com, Marie is such a lovely soul so I highly recommend you follow her inspiring blog/social media accounts and if you run into her at an event you’re guaranteed to leave smiling.

If you clicked into my shirtdress tag you’ll see I now have two spotty Robert Kaufman chambray dresses. Well I actually have a third UFO of Vogue 1102 cut out in the black colourway but I messed up some of the pintucks and have been putting off fixing it for months. Maybe 2019 is the year you’ll see that dress appear.

I’m currently trying to plan some sewing for the coming year. There are some lovely fabrics that have been in my stash for way too long. I’d really like to fix that and not be afraid of making the wrong thing anymore. I have my dressmakers ballgown to make too. Will I see you there?

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