Hello all! As I write it’s a cold but bright Friday here in Yorkshire. I have plans to celebrate my anniversary this weekend (delayed since the summer, thanks Covid) and hosting a live stream sewalong on Instagram this Sunday for Simplicity. I’m making a S9240 sweatshirt live!! I need to ease myself back into live videos again! They were always so fun but moderately stressful. So let’s hope this one goes off without issues.
Now onto today’s make. Returning to a pattern sewn years ago can inspire you to do things differently the next time around. I have made Vogue 9000 before but always knew I would revisit it, as I love the grown-on sleeves and full panelled skirt. This design also features a flat collar and buttoned bodice that is finished with a front facing and a strip of bias binding at the back neckline. The dress also fastens with an underarm side seam zipper for a neat fit.
When I first made the dress in 2016 I sewed it in a luscious red John Kaldor microfibre. It was medium weight, glossy and a little stretchy (like cotton sateen) with the drape of polyester. I rounded off the corners of the contrast black collar and used black self-covered buttons on the front fastenings. It was a beautiful formal dress I wore to several events including a Christmas dinner dance.
For my latest version I wanted to use an Ecovera viscose – a sustainable method of producing viscose that follows stringent guidelines to ensure eco-responsibility. The viscose was from Rainbow Fabrics in London who specialise in deadstock and overstock fabric from fashion houses which is a nice way to avoid waste and make your sewing more sustainable. In this pretty, confetti-heart print, the dress is lighter weight and easier to wear than the John Kaldor version which is just what I hoped. I can wear it in Summer with sandals, and Winter with brogues and tights.
Once again, I decided to round off the collar points but this time also extend the collar so it finished right at the front edges. This was due to the fact I would very rarely wear the neckline fully buttoned. Also the notch where the collar meets the facing isn’t very pronounced if worn open. A seamless transition into the collar seemed to be worth pursuing. It reminds me of a sporty polo collar now. I’m pretty pleased with the finished look.
Choosing viscose for this pattern does introduce a few more considerations. I didn’t line the dress so I’ll wear a slip underneath when wearing tights. A sharp fine needle and pins are vital to avoid snagging the fabric, and a dab of fray check on the button holes provides extra security. The most important thing to remember is to allow your skirt hem to drop for at least 24hours after attaching to the bodice. As it is a full skirt, there are areas on the bias that will naturally stretch out. Once the fabric has dropped you can then recut the hem so that it is level before finishing. I use a vintage Newey chalk hem marker that allows you to puff a line of chalk at a set height as you rotate in your garment.
I wholeheartedly recommend Vogue 9000. The panelled skirt is great for narrow fabrics while still achieving a flowing full skirt. I love the double darts in the back for even shaping, and like how the front bodice darts extend into the skirt panel seams. It’s a beautiful vintage pattern where you can create a dress that is a true reproduction of the era, or add a modern spin on the silhouette with an updated fabric choice.
Happy October everyone! It’s spooky season right? I’m already planning what pumpkin design to try this year after my super successful painted pumpkin with sewing theme illustrations.
Now onto what I’ve been making! Here is my new M7969 dress which you can buy here. When I finished my previous red and pink M7969 I knew I needed more of this pattern. I then very soon after picked up this gorgeous floral viscose from Rainbow Fabrics.
The falling blooms in orange and blush on the black base make me think of Autumn and even though I try to avoid wearing black, I knew it had to come home with me. All their fabric is deadstock or overstock from fashion houses and suppliers in London so you have to buy quickly if you like something. I’m glad I did as it’s now sold out, but take a look to see if you fall in love with another print.
For my second version of the dress I chose to try longer sleeves. I used view B again but cut the sleeve just below elbow length. I should have probably gone another couple of inches longer in hindsight but I’m pretty happy with this. I can wear a cardigan over the top easily but also show a little bit of skin when I choose. With oversized dresses like this I think they suit me best when you can see my arms OR I cut to knee length.
The dress goes together so smoothly and with the multi directional print I could easily get the dress out of 2metres of fabric. It’s definitely softer and swishier than the polyester crepe version which I like so you can see why the primary recommended fabric is challis. For me, using the double row of gathering stitches to draw in fabric has never seen me wrong so I’ve done that at the sleeve heads and waist.
As before this is a size M with no other size alterations. For the elastic cuffs I made a small single folded 1cm hem which was stitched 80% of the way around with a gap left to feed my elastic into place. This teeny channel required adding a safety pin to the end of my elastic to help feed it through. I normally like to use my bodkin for elastic channels but it was too tight for that.
I already wore it out twice. Once to dinner with my new colleagues! Sue who is the General Manager of Simplicity, Jackie who leads the Customer Service team and Marilyn who manages the Sew Today digital subscriptions. We went to a lovely new restaurant in Altrincham. Then I enjoyed wearing it so much, I wore it over to dinner at my in-laws house! So what I’ve determined is it’s great for wearing to dinner. It’s dressy enough to feel fancy but loose enough to sit comfortably while I stuff my face. WINNER.