Little Black Jacket part 2 – materials

This is second part of my mini series on the Chanel jacket course I am attending in March. See part 1 about inspiration here!

Today is all about materials!

The course is based around Vogue pattern V7975.
image

(I’ve heard people rave about Vogue 8804 from the Claire Shaeffer Collection but believe its out of print now.)

The pattern calls for Wool and Wool Blends, Tweeds, Boucle, Gabardine and Mediumweight Linen.

Gillian, the instructor from the sewing school, was kind enough to ring me to discuss supplies.

We talked about how classic Chanel jackets are made from boucle or tweed and she explained about Linton fabrics, a leading stockist for Chanel.

If Chanel choose a fabric from Linton for their line the agreement is that no other bolt of that fabric will be sold for two years. This safeguards the design house from replicas appearing in the market and discourages sewers from making themselves a copy at home immediately.

The pattern does allow for other fabrics as I mentioned and Gillian encouraged me try something more trendy if I wanted. I’m not sure I’m the tweed jacket type so I’ve bought a beautifully soft (so lovely I want to cuddle it all day) plain black wool from Samuel Taylor. I picked an unobtrusive black poly-satin lining.

Interfacing is needed but the pattern doesn’t say what weight so I have a metre of medium and a metre of firm weight fusible interfacing and will feel it out as I go.

Notions are listed based on the view you are making. I’m opting for view B with the length of D/E.
image

For this view I’m advised to get braid or ribbon for decoration. I decided to use grosgrain ribbon as trim and my current plan is to use it around the neckline, front and jacket hem, as well as at the cuffs and pockets.

Gillian also advised the course would cover some additional techniques for making the jacket not detailed in the V7975 instructions.

As well as interfacing we will be using interlining to add stability, so I have some cotton gauze ready to use.

Also we will be hand stitching chain onto the jacket’s interior hem. This is another traditional element of Chanel jackets, where the chain weighs down the jacket hem to produce a desirable drape. But I couldn’t find any attractive weighted chain so Gillian and I agreed I should use weights inside the hem of the jacket as well as attaching the admittedly light chain I had been able to purchase.

Finally I have three spools of black thread and have pre-wound three bobbins so I don’t have to halt progress if I run out. Part of me wants to use colourful thread in case I need to unpick but can’t think like that. Only success is allowed!!

Continue Reading

Little Black Jacket part 1 – inspiration

This is the first post of a mini series that will cover my attempts at making a jacket. Gasp! horror!

On March 23rd and 24th I will be attending a 2-day course on making a Chanel inspired jacket, hosted by the Yorkshire sewing school.

And I’m rather nervous… well that’s putting it mildly. I’m chuffing scared!!

So I thought I’d share some of my inspiration jackets to show what direction I’m leaning.

wpid-carven-black-peplum-hem-boiled-wool-jacket-product-3-4600441-217890437.jpeg
Carven Peplum Hem Boiled Wool Jacket in Black
wpid-glider-wool-jacket_204-initial.jpeg
Pyrus grey wool jacket
Givenchy Black Wool and Satin Jacket
Givenchy Black Wool and Satin Jacket
Sandro Valentin jacket
Sandro Valentin jacket
wpid-m1_604753.jpeg
Jaeger London Jacket with ribbon trim

I love the shoulder inserts of the Sandro jacket, the satin trim on the Givenchy and the simple elegance of the Pyrus and Carven jackets.

The Jaeger jacket which is last has my favourite elements which is a dreamy looking softer wool and the ribbon trim detail.

Feel free to take a look at my Pinterest board for more jacket inspiration!


Continue Reading

Truffle Progress

After the death of my plaid top I wanted to bounce back into action and work on my Colette Truffle dress.

Super exciting as it’ll be my Xmas party dress yaaay!!

I’m using a gorgeous black and white polka dot satin I got at the Birmingham meet up.

The dots are so cute and large and the satin feels great.

After 3 muslins I got the darts in the right place and think the sizing is “spot on” for the bodice.

So I’ve cut it out:

And with some kick ass purple lining:

But all my skirt muslins were atrocious. I can’t make the hip curve fit, or the darts work or match up with the bodice darts!!!

Bah humbug*

(*hey we’re almost at Christmas).

So I’ve been debating leaving the Truffle unconquered for now. Well at least the bottom half.

If I add another style of skirt on the bottom I don’t think I can call it a Truffle can I?

I’m thinking possibly a TNT gathered skirt as I have them on most my dresses. Probably from my V8723 as it’s a good length.

Or something new and exciting like a half circle skirt. Though my maths skills are a little rusty.

Neeno used this tutorial for some of her half circle skirts.

Hmmm if I’m going to change the skirt up and lose that wonderful talking-point flounce, maybe I should add some other feature?

There’s even a tutorial  from the Selfish Seamstress to help me on my way.

Though I’d have to re-cut the back bodice and move the zip to the size. Oh my gosh this is getting complicated.

Any other suggestions to jazz up the dress without crazily redesigning everything?

Maybe just lowering the back into a nice v would be enough excitement.

Eeeeep!! I’m so excited to get this dress together but know I need to make some decisions.

I’ve got until Dec 7th to sew it up but not a lot of free time before then.

Best do some long hard thinking about this!!

Continue Reading