Swish factor – my wedding dress skirt

Time to talk skirts! This is the last construction based post for the dress in sure you’re relieved to hear but if you’ve ever been curious about putting a zipper in a sheer skirt I’m sharing how I did it.

Almond rock floral wedding dress handmade bridal sewing organza Dior couture

The skirt is a 3/4 circle that I drafted on Swedish tracing paper using an online tutorial. Each layer is constructed individually. The base is silk satin, then rose print, then organza. There’s also a satin lining layer facing inwards in liquid satin. All are constructed with tiny French seams. I agonized over this because the rose organza bias seams were hard work. No matter how carefully I sewed them or what tricks I tried they fought laying flat.

Almond rock floral wedding dress handmade bridal sewing organza Dior couture

I made two skirts and picked the least wobbly, managed to steam them pretty straight and accepted the top layer would cover them better and the petticoat would support the seams. I think it’s due to the design being printed on top of the fabric because the floral areas are a lot stiffer than the sheer area so the stretch isn’t even. Not all fabrics behave the way you want them to. Safe to say the silk layers sewed beautifully.

Almond rock floral wedding dress handmade bridal sewing organza Dior couture

I didn’t want all the layers joined at the centre back of the skirt so each layer is French seamed up to the zipper opening and then clipped at an angle to sit flat. Then I could turn all the layers under together for my lapped zipper. I know the above photo doesn’t look like anything but that was the point!! The clipping (at the rose area) is near invisible. The clipping at an angle helps prevent fraying and the organza softens everything making it look hazy underneath.

Almond rock floral wedding dress handmade bridal sewing organza Dior couture

Hemming the layers was awful. Utterly awful! The different layers dropped in different ways and I had to decide if I would try and level them evenly or stagger them. I wore my full outfit and my bridal seamstress expert/bridesmaid Charly came round and pinned all the layers to the same height. I then trimmed and did rolled hems on my overlocker all to the same length.

Almond rock floral wedding dress handmade bridal sewing organza Dior couture

The problem with circle skirts though is that as they swish they constantly look slightly uneven. Multiple floaty layers make this more noticeable which is frustrating when you know it definitely IS even! But all you need to do is re-swish your skirt and things look better. My rolled hem settings took quite a while to work out as they needed to change a bit for each layer. They look identical above but the width and tension needed tiny tweaks. It’s very easy to get too close to the edge on a sheer fabric and then the rolled hem just pulls off so speed is the enemy. In hindsight I wish I’d levelled the layers off slightly staggered. It would have been hell to do but looked a bit better.

Almond rock floral wedding dress handmade bridal sewing organza Dior couture

You might ask if the lining was necessary when I had a crinoline petticoat on underneath. Well I thought in case I took the petticoat off for the evening (which I did) or if I wear it again (which I might) it would be nice against my legs.

Almond rock floral wedding dress handmade bridal sewing organza Dior couture

It was staggering 35 degrees on my wedding day so I decided to pop back to my room half way through the evening do. Run around in my underwear in the air conditioning and then pop the dress back on without the petticoat. Here’s me “rehydrating” below.

Almond rock floral wedding dress handmade bridal sewing organza Dior couture

We’re on the home straight with wedding dress posts now. I hope you’re still finding them interesting!

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Black and White and Red All Over

Penguin biscuit jokes are the best.

Quick post here today. I’ve got a pretty simple make to share but it’s definitely easy to wear.almond rock dixie diy ballet dress black and white

This is another Dixie Diy ballet dress. After my horse print version I knew I’d be making a few more as they’re great with tights and cardigans for work.

almond rock dixie diy ballet dress black and white

The black and white print jersey is from the rag market in Birmingham. It was £1 a metre and I still only used two metres for the print matching along the seams.

I cut out and overlocked the whole thing in under two hours.

almond rock dixie diy ballet dress black and white

I wish I’d used a straight skirt instead of the rounded one from the pattern so the dress would have a clean straight hem. Oh well. I’m not losing any sleep over that!

My mum says she thinks the dress is a little Christmassy. I suppose those geometric shapes look a bit like snowflakes.

almond rock dixie diy ballet dress black and white

Right then! That’s enough from me.

I’ll leave you be and let you enjoy the rest of your weekend.

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Got to be sewing something….

In sewing related news, I have yet to  finish my red polka dot skirt. I had to try finishing by carrying the machine through to the bedroom with a little table to work on while Jimi had his friend’s round for boy’s night but failed.

Beryl loves it!

I have also figured out why my Ikea scribbly dot print dress just doesn’t seem right.

1) The neckline was way too high… hitting my throat high! I’m lowering it with crafty tactics to what you see on the mannequin. Much more flattering!

2) I need a haircut. Can’t look nice in a prim dress if you have scraggly ratty hair.

3) I have a stinking cold. Trying the dress on highlights how pasty and tired I am which is never going to help me like the dress.

So there you have it! THREE legitimate reasons to leave the dress alone in order to like it more.

By the way I’ve got a new addiction… in addition to sewing, I am also now addicted to singing songs where I change the lyrics to be about sewing. I may be turning a little deranged.

Terrible, I know, but super fun! You should try it. Adam and Joe call it “A-pop-riation” (instead of Appropriation) on their radio show, where you sing the menial tasks of the day.

You may remember I posted about changing the Prince song to “Little Red Lace Dress”. Lately I’ve been altering Michael Jackson’s “Got to be starting something” to “Got to be sewing something” as that pretty much is my default state lately.

I’ve also been shouting in the style of Basement Jaxx when things are missing “WHERE’S MY PIN’S AT, AT, AT….”  which is more fun than saying “Where’s your head at”.

And finally singing “Hold me closer tiny serger” when using my baby Singer overlocker. Sure Elton wouldn’t mind.

Oh and I’ve nicknamed the overlocker “Sergei”… Let’s not worry too much about that.

That means my mannequin has a name: Beryl, Sergei the Singer is taken care of, but my machine is yet to be named! Sure I’ll come up with something.

I’ve also been spending a lot of time day dreaming/planning…

She sells sea shells by the sea shore….
Fake lace georgette! Love it
Simple and sweet
Stars in their eyes… Tonight Matthew, I’m going to be B4443!
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