• Jackets and coats

    Finished peacoat!

    Hurrah! I’m happy to share my finished peacoat.

    almond rock vogue 7666 peacoat sewalong

    This is Vogue 7666, a vintage 70s jacket, trouser and skirt pattern that I got in a random bundle of patterns for £1.50 at a car boot sale.

    almond rock vogue 7666 peacoat sewalong

    I wanted to join in the McCall’s peacoat sewalong that Rachel and the team at McCall’s were hosting on their blogs, but I wanted to sew this pattern so hopefully it still counts as taking part.

    almond rock vogue 7666 peacoat sewalong

    The coat was sewn over several weeks. As always, I made a toile because I didn’t trust the pattern to fit out the packet. I used an old curtain and turns out I needed to adjust the princess seams, armholes and sleeve length. I am pretty happy with the adjustments but might have taken too much out of the hips and could have made the princess seams a little snugger.

    almond rock vogue 7666 peacoat sewalong

    almond rock vogue 7666 peacoat sewalong

    The outer jacket is made from a burgundy wool with tiny flecks of black and gold that are hard to see in the photos. It was £6 per metre from B&M Fabrics at Leeds market. The lining is black silk from a car boot sale too funnily enough. A woman was selling off her mother’s fabric stash and sold my mum a 2m piece for £1.50 which she gifted to me. A burn test proved it was actually silk. Lastly I have faceted burgundy buttons from Totally Buttons which were pretty expensive but really make the jacket for me so I don’t care.

    almond rock vogue 7666 peacoat sewalong

    The jacket has some cool instructions for tailoring which made me happy. Each piece is underlining and the fronts, upper back and collar are reinforced with hair canvas. I pad stitched all the canvas and installed twill tape along the fold lines of the collar.

    almond rock vogue 7666 peacoat sewalong

    almond rock vogue 7666 peacoat sewalong

    The kicker is that while you can add bound buttonholes to the jacket you can only do it down one side. I would have much rather put bound buttonholes down both to make it truly double breasted but the facing doesn’t stretch far enough over. The lined vent is a nice touch and my home made shoulder padding worked a treat.

    almond rock vogue 7666 peacoat sewalong

     What’s left to say! The jacket feels lovely and warm and I finished it just in time for the snow that’s threatening to land.

    I do wish the weather was better for photos. Makes me a bit sad to make a jacket I’m so proud of but can’t get good pics of it because of the lame weather.

    One thing I want to flag up if you didn’t know, is that this is the same pattern as Lauren’s ace plaid version which you can see here.

    And here’s a bonus cat photo of Chewie blocking my view of the instructions.

    almond rock vogue 7666 peacoat sewalong

  • Jackets and coats

    Emerald or Teal?

    So this is the story of my new jacket.
    We’ve had a bit of a rocky time getting to completion but we made it out the other side.

    It’s sort of my vintage pledge garment because my original pledge to sew a vintage shelf bust pattern was demolished when I sewed the modern Gertie dress.

    almond rock emerald green wool style 2563 jacket

    Meet Style 2563, a vintage jacket and skirt suit pattern dated at 1969. The cover art is misleading – three women on the envelope, but no variations in the pattern pieces, just additional cutting layouts for plaid fabric.

    almond rock emerald green wool style 2563 jacket

    I picked this up at the Knitting and Stitching Show last year as there is a regular stall holder with giant plastic tubs full of vintage patterns and I usually spend half an hour combing through it hoping for buried treasure in my size. A quick muslin confirmed it was a pretty good fit and only needed a few tweaks!

    almond rock emerald green wool style 2563 jacket

    The outer fabric is a textured wool from Barry’s Fabrics. I picked it up at SewBrum with the cheeky discount that had been arranged for us — thanks Charlotte! There was a fault running parallel to the selvedge about 30 cm along so I was actually given a further discount. Making this something like £9 a metre.

    almond rock emerald green wool style 2563 jacket

    The lining fabric was an eBay find! The seller had called it “stilletoes” print by mistake so it’s good I stumbled onto it. Such pretty colours! It’s a lovely satin that probably isn’t silk (even though she calls it that) but feels as nice either way.

    almond rock emerald green wool style 2563 jacket

    almond rock emerald green wool style 2563 jacket

    Aaah those buttons. These were the most expensive part of the jacket. Can you believe there were £3 each!? But since the other supplies were a steal, and wool covered buttons were ruled out, I wanted buttons I’d love and would LAST.

    almond rock emerald green wool style 2563 jacket

    So here’s my two pence about this jacket.

    • It’s too short. I lengthened it a lot and it’s still just a bit too short. Very frustrating. I get that it’s supposed to be worn with a dress or skirt but at its actual length your belly button would show.
    • The princess seams on this jacket are a bit crap looking. If you’re going to draft a princess seamed back and a two piece sleeve, the princess seam should curve to the armscye not the shoulder and connect to the sleeve seam.
    • There isn’t any allowance for the roll of the collar so the outer seam doesn’t roll under nicely. I did what I could with it but this is the best I could manage.
    • Why no pockets? Shouldn’t every good jacket have pockets? I really should have added some so it’s partially my fault. Some cute welt pockets would have been nice, possibly even with a little pocket flap, right?

    almond rock emerald green wool style 2563 jacket Chewie agrees – WHERE’S THE POCKET!?

    almond rock emerald green wool style 2563 jacket

    So there we go! A new jacket with a few problems but still pretty cute. I’ll definitely get a lot of wear out of it.

    The only thing I can’t decide on is what colour this jacket is. I even got some paint sample cards from B&Q and it sort of falls in between their Teal and Emerald. Help me out here, what colour do you think it is?

  • Jackets and coats

    Blue jacket 2.0

    I’m back!! I feel like I’ve been away from the blog for ages (sob sob).

    Today I’m sharing the story of a little blue jacket. This bad boy:

    20131008_211404

    I bought it from Next a few years ago. It has some awesome details like cool pockets and great top-stitching.

    But if you wear a jacket for several years, stubbonly refusing to get a new one, it’s going to end up bobbly, full of holes and missing buttons. Ack!

    Then… (plot twist alert!) during early February another Amy remade her favourite blue coat and I won Sonja’s Anise giveaway, so I started to hatch a plan.

    Ahem, I promptly sat on my butt and did nothing with that plan for months and carried on wearing my broken jacket – what a hobo.

    But now I present to you blue jacket 2.0!!

    wpid-20131008_220332_LLS.jpg

    I found this awesome blue coating at The Fancy Silk Store in Birmingham which is a near perfect colour match. It may have been a little bulky for the Anise but think I get away with it.

    2013-10-08 18.18.15-2

    I used fusible interlining for warmth and a mixed blue satin lining, which reminds me of looking through a window on a rainy day (I’m so poetic).

    image

    I used prym metal self cover buttons and nearly broke my thumb by not buying the assembly gadget. You’ll notice no bound buttonholes. I swear I practiced them… here’s the proof!

    2013-09-23 22.32.18
    But in the end I felt like I didn’t need the extra hassle/bulkiness. I’m glad I learnt the technique though!

    I think I like the quality of my welt pockets but I’m a bit iffy on my collar execution. It was soooo fiddly to sew together and turn out. The curves of the collar look a bit lumpy to me. Hmmmmm…

    2013-10-08 18.18.19-2

    Because I’ve seen it on many rtw jackets, I added internal buttons to minimise stress on my exterior buttons and to stop the left side slipping.

    One totally obvious thing I didn’t add was a hanging loop. Why isn’t this in the instructions!?! I’m really gutted about this as it won’t hang up now. Booooo.

    2013-10-08 18.18.43

    So there you go! My jacket is done and I can get back to some less stressful sewing!

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