WARNING: This post contains a lot of pointed elbows hahah.
What do you do when you need to make your fifth toile for your wedding dress toile but are sick of wasting muslin? Make an actual dress!
I had a precious 1.5m of this Rifle Paper Co for Cotton + Steel cotton fabric. The print is Bon Voyage from the Les Fleurs collection and has adorable holiday themed items all over with metallic details! I got mine from Miss Matatabi when it was first released along with a the rayon I used for my Anna dress.
Though I bought it before I was even proposed to I never got round to using it. It seemed perfect for my honeymoon to the Seychelles when I looked through my stash later! Tropical flowers, palm trees and cute accessories? Yes please.
I added a gathered Emery skirt (by Christine Haynes) and spaghetti straps. Plus I had enough to self line the bodice and sneak some pockets in there! Theres one of my best ever lapped zippers on the back bodice but turns out even new husbands don’t have the patience to take back shots on honeymoon. These pics were taken on the deck of our hotel in Mahé. After dinner were only 15 steps from the beach.
It turned out awesomely cute and the fit was near perfect so it really did help with my wedding dress progress!I love the sweetheart of this pattern and as long as you clip and notch precisely the curves turn out like a dream. When you have a multi-directional print that is scattered like this, you can really get a great layout for a princess seam dress.
Final thoughts are… If you can get hold of this fabric still I’d totally recommend it, especially the black version as the metallic shows up better. The print saturation and metallic have held up very well to repeated washing and it’s a good quality cotton. To see my other versions of this dress check out the blog tag Simplicity 1606.
Happy heatwave everyone!
So I’m not going to inundate you with pictures of Simplicity 1606… this is my toile version of the ball gown with a fun twist. The pattern is essentially a great little princess seam sundress waiting to happen. So I simply added sundress straps and a gathered skirt to get the look!
The double straps were inspired by the Centaurée by Deer and Doe patterns. The gathered skirt is of course the Emery skirt which you know my feelings on.
Like my ball gown I added boning and an invisible zipper. The boning isn’t necessary at all when you’ve got straps but I like how it stops the bodice from creasing which is a likely occurrence in cotton.
This dress took 1.2m of 60 inch wide fabric which is incredible stash busting as it meant I could use this Alpine print poplin. I’d been searching in vain for a coordinating plain navy until I tried laying out this dress on a hunch. A perfect fit thanks to the princess seam bodice pieces!
This print features skiers, wood lodges and fir trees. It was a cheeky impulse buy from Sew Over It while I was getting the vintage shirtdress pattern a few years back. Note to Future Amy: never buy less than 2m of poplin.
These shoes are the bomb and Next have just listed some similar platforms in red too… my bank balance won’t forgive me hahaha.
A bit later than planned I wanted to share some pics from The Dressmaker’s Ball!
In case you missed it this was the event that took place on May 14th at Leicester’s City Rooms. Organised by the fab team at Crafty Sew and Sew we were treated to an evening of dinner and dancing. It was fab!! Here’s me and Sarah, one half of the organising team.
We had a complimentary drink in arrival, access to a glittery photo booth, buffet dinner and live music from Gabby Young. I had the honour of being part of the judging panel for the optional competition. I was joined by Elisalex, Marie, Elle and Becky on the panel. It was incredibly hard picking winners from all the amazing garments on display. I loved how everyone dressed to the nines for the night.
I wore a version of Simplicity 1606, an amazing fit pattern I picked up last year. Its a great little versatile pattern and I’ve already made a hundred from it since the ball.
My fabric was a medium-weight polyester satin in a sort of crystallized print from Abakhan Moyston. 3m came to about £20 but with a 15% off voucher this dress pretty much came to £17!
Of couse I added pockets. I used a concealed zip and boning from my stash. Plus grosgrain ribbon I had as a waist stay.
The fit was near perfect I think but I should have added more boning to stop the bodice sagging I think. The waist stay keeps it in place but it’s not as rigid as it could be.
I actually hid my waist stay inside the garment, having it emerge through buttonholes added to the lining before construction. To finish I hand sewed hot pink braid to the circle skirt to keep the drama and added a petticoat for extra floofiness.
It was such a lovely night and I got to chat to so many sewists! Gabby entertained us with her gorgeous vocals and Marie was an excellent hostess! (I even got to meet Charlotte and the bunnies).
I’ll leave you with a few more pics of the evening to enjoy. Maybe I’ll see you there if it’s repeated next year? Thanks so much to Freya and Sarah for xreati g this wonderful event.
You know how you can look back and laugh at how stupid you were. In my last post I was revelling in feeling better after a bout of stomach flu and little did I know I wasn’t better at all… It’s now day 12 and I’m still struggling to perform normal life activities. Thank goodness I finally got to the doctors and should be well enough to go back to work after Easter.
The perfect time for a blog post! This dress has been living in my wardrobe for a while now. I made it for a lovely wedding in a gorgeous barn for two special people. It was up high on a hill in Cumbria surrounded by sheep and rolling hills and was very very windy. It felt extra lovely as we were newlyweds just back from honeymoon and revelling in the beauty of the Seychelles.
I wanted something quite long in skirt length but a breezy shape and quick to make. I’ve made Simplicity 2444 several times and always swap out the skirt. This time I cut a big gathered rectangle so I’m not calling that “drafting a pattern piece” and let out the bodice a little. Of course I added pockets as weddings need tissues.
The fabric is the real star here. It’s a Liberty of London tana lawn called Archive Lilac on the prettiest green teal base that they call turquoise. (It also comes in 3 other colours.) I really want to wear more strong colours so bought this print to achieve this. I’d originally planned a low cut bombshell wrap bodice but it barely showed off the print so went for more coverage.
It’s super swishy, fully lined, and finished with deep hems and an invisible zipper. It was speedy and uneventful to sew which in some ways I’m a little sad about but it’s still a joy to wear. I wore it to the Sewing for Pleasure show and got lovely comments. Plus I wore it to the Sew Over 50 photoshoot and the ladies liked the print too.
After spending a half an hour taking things out of my wardrobe that don’t suit my life anymore, I’m really pleased this is on the rails. So while it wasn’t challenging to sew or filled with interesting details, I know I’ll keep wearing it. Well, when I finally get out of my pyjamas again I will!!
I thought I’d share a quick peek of my test dress that shows how different my finished dress turned out.
I ordered the yellow colourway of the rose organza specifically for the test (So I’d get the effect but wouldn’t be too precious about the fabric… we’ll touch on prices in another blog post), plus used white duchesse satin underneath and white chiffon on top. On this test the under bodice is Simplicity 1606 and the skirt is a full circle I drafted myself. The rose was mounted onto the satin then the front and back princess seams of the bodices were constructed. Each skirt was assembled at the side seams but the layers were kept separate to allow swish.
Having never really tried draping before I first tried working flat, laying the bodice on my worktop. On the front I placed the pleats turned upwards, about 3/4″ wide and quite spread apart. On the back the pleats faced downwards. I then joined the side seams and attached to all three of the skirts.
It was a really revealing test. The white satin and chiffon was too bright and the pleating made me look very flat chested. The upwards pleats were definitely more flattering but they needed more curves and to be placed closer together. The full circle skirt was great for twirling but I thought it should sit flatter on my tummy. And you could barely see the print so I needed to find something more sheer to go on top. I have a little of the yellow rose organza left so it’ll be lovely to make something from in the future. (Though it’s not as nice as the pink).
I resolved to sit and think through the construction order more carefully and figure out if I could drape the bodice in one go rather than joining the side seams. Plus I had to work out how to install a zip into three layers of fabric!
In my next meaty post I’ll share the major part of the construction plus some videos of me making the dress.